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Wax and Tuning Instructions |
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Tuning your board
Sharpening the side edge will give you control, increase grip on snow & ice and will give you the ability to stop and turn on icy or hard packed conditions.
Use long smooth strokes with the Demon Edge Tuner overlapping each section to maintain a uniform edge from tip to tail. If you are unsure as to how much edge to remove,
mark the edge with a black magic marker and then file the edge until the marker is gone. Wipe the edge filings off the base, after every two or three strokes, to prevent grinding the edge filings into the base.
WARNING: Do not file your edges excessively. (Make sure you are careful when learning to tune your edges)
If you are going to be riding on ice or hard pack snow, or are an advanced or competitive rider, you will want a side edge bevel. By reducing your side edge angle you
are creating a more acute angle. This angle is extremely effective for competition, steep runs; icy and hard packed conditions.
The acute angle also, reduces the friction of the edges cutting into the slope/snow, which makes your equipment run quicker. Perform the same technique as above.
With a black marker color the whole side edge from tip to tail. Use the Edge Tuner side that reads 88 degrees. Begin with the rougher, cross-cut side of the file and switch to
the smother cut as you approach the final stages of completely removing the black marker form the edges. When you have removed the black marker completely from the edge,
you will have a uniform and 88° angled edge from tip to tail.
Using a flat file
There are two edges to sharpen, flat filing for the Base Edge and side filing for the Side Edge.
To check your edges for rock damage or nicks, use the scotchbrite pad and run it along the edges. The fibers on the pad will grab at any damaged sections.
Inspect these damaged areas for they may need extra work when filing the edges. The pad method will prevent you from cutting your fingers as opposed to inspecting
the edges with your bare fingers. Your base edge needs to be filed only once and again only when it is damaged by a rock (nicked) or rust.
Do not flat file often and when you do, do it lightly, other wise you end up with a severe base bevel. Keep your base edge clean with a pocket stone (Demon Pocket Stone).
A filed base edge allows the equipment to glide and turn easier. Lay the Demon Flat File on the base. Use long smooth strokes with the file, (approximately 1/3 the length of the board per stroke),
slightly overlapping each section to maintain a uniform edge from tip to tail. If you are unsure as to how much edge to remove, mark the edge length with a black magic marker
and then file the edge until the marker is gone.
Keep on filing, without bending the file, until the file stops removing the excess edge and glides smoothly. This will ensure a clean and sharp uniform edge.
For filing the tip and tail sections or the non-running surface of your equipment, place the file at 90° to the edge. This prevents the file from rocking and enables you to flatten the edge to the base.
Detuning your edges
After each time you sharpen edges. You will want to de-tune the tip and tail which reduces over turning and grabbing of the tip and tail. Use the pocket stone to de-tune the edges at the tip and tail.
To de-tune you hold the stone at a 45° angle to the edge and rub it back and forth two to three times length wise to remove the sharpness of the edge at the tip and tail ends.
With the stone, pressing lightly (you can always remove more edge if not effective later) round the curved section of tip and tail approximately 3 to 6cmalong the running surface
(where the board makes contact with the snow).
Brush types and uses
ABOUT BRUSHES: In general, soft extruded bases and waxes require softer brushes and harder sintered bases and waxes require harder stiffer brushes.
Wet snow conditions like those found in the spring require a harder brush also.
Stainless Steel: To imprint structure into base prior to waxing, clean heavy ground in dirt and old graphite in base.
Brass Brushes: To texture some extruded bases prior to waxing and open structures of "Colder temp. range waxes" after waxing.
Medium Nylon Brushes: General purpose. Open structure of base after waxing. Use nylon brushes for warmer temp. range waxes. Nylon brushes are also used to get wax particles off the base.
Repairing your base
Scratches and small gouges in your base impede the gliding ability of the base. You will want to remove all scratches in your base to obtain optimum turning and gliding performance.
Large scratches can act like rudders. Scrape the base with scraper (Demon Wax Scraper) to remove excess material. Then apply base cleaner (don´t use too often) and wipe clean with a rag to ensure
good bonding of P-tex to base. You are now ready to begin filling the scratches in your base. Heat up a repair iron, press the P-tex (included in Demon Boy Scout) Kit into
the damaged scratch(s), let cool and scrape level with the steel or sharp plastic scraper. Hold the scraper with a sturdy grip as in and push away from your body.
When scraping base repair material, begin from the center of the repair and shave off the excess material with many light strokes to avoid removing the new base material from the damaged area.
Waxing your board
Choosing the correct wax: the most accurate and best method for choosing the correct wax is by using a thermometer to find the exact outside temperature.
If you do not have a thermometer handy, just take an estimated guess. Then choose the wax with the range that the temperature falls in between.
Converting Celsius to Fahrenheit:
C = 5(F - 32)/9 and F = 9C/5 + 32
The moisture in the snow will also impact your wax choice. If the snow is so dry that a snowball cannot be made, a colder/harder wax is a good way to go. If the snow is sticking
together nicely, a warmer/softer wax will work better.
Apply the Iron on Waxes
1. Clean
Apply generously your base cleaner (but not too often). Be sure to use a towel or rag that will not leave particles or flurries. Firmly scrub the bottom of your board to remove old wax,
dirt or other grit that may be on the board. Repeating this process before waxing your board will increase the effectiveness of the tune up.
Let sit for a few minutes afterward to allow the cleaner evaporate.
2. Drip
First choose the proper wax for your riding conditions. Then put down an old sheet or some newspaper to catch dripping wax. Then put your board base-up.
(If you do not have vises you can improvise with boxes or on some books).
Plug in your iron and set it to a medium heat. It should be hot enough to readily melt the wax, but not so hot that the wax smokes. Hold the iron perpendicular to your snowboard
with the pointed side down. Press the wax bar against the hot iron and hold it there. As the wax drips, move the iron up and down the base of your board until you have
stripes of dripped wax 1 to 2 inches apart. Set the wax aside.
3. Iron
Now iron in all that wax until the base of your board is fully covered. Keep the iron moving; leaving it in one area for too long can damage the snowboard.
4. Scrape
Turn off the iron and wait 15 to 20 minutes for the wax to set and cool. Now grab the wax scraper and scrape off any excess wax in a nose to tail motion.
Scraping away all the wax may sound counter-productive, until you realize that a hot wax actually opens up the pores in a snowboard´s base where you
want wax to go. Excess wax will only slow you down.
5. Buff
After scraping, use the scotchbrite pad in a nose to tail motion to take off the last of the wax and give your board a finishing touch. You are now ready to ride !
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